GMC Terrain, Equinox, and SRX Forum banner

Engine replacement cost?

138K views 40 replies 20 participants last post by  RIT333 
#1 ·
Does anyone know what an approximate dealer labor price would be to swap a 2.4l in a 2010 Equinox? Long story short, GM and dealer offered $2500 credit toward replacing my pistons and rings, which is exactly what dealer said it would cost. Looked on GM website and saw I could buy a new engine for $2000. I think I would rather have the new engine and pay the labor difference. How much should it be?
Tia.
XIV
 
#2 ·
Xivranch said:
Does anyone know what an approximate dealer labor price would be to swap a 2.4l in a 2010 Equinox? Long story short, GM and dealer offered $2500 credit toward replacing my pistons and rings, which is exactly what dealer said it would cost. Looked on GM website and saw I could buy a new engine for $2000. I think I would rather have the new engine and pay the labor difference. How much should it be?
Tia.
XIV
Not sure about labor cost, but $2K for a crate engine sounds very cheap. I'm with you - I'd rather have a whole new engine - even if it cost an extra grand. :thumb:
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Was the option offered for a engine swap ? Most service offers are not based on the dollar cap, but the actual procedure authorized. The dealer might work with you based on the extra labor involved but I would be very careful. If they got into the engine change and other upgrades were required to enable the use of the new engine those costs would certainly come out of your pocket.

Are you certain this engine is NEW? An engine remanufactured by an outside supplier and distributed thru GM as a service replacement engine is more likely what you are looking at. Not all crate engines are new, unused units, non-V8's are many times remans.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Xivranch, though you could find an engine for $2k, I doubt the dealer would let you buy then ship the engine to them to swap out. More likely the dealer will have a higher price for the crate engine. Best to ask for their quote.

Be aware that you do NOT have to go to a Chevrolet dealership for this work - you can go to GMC, Buick, or other GM dealerships. So I'd ask other dealerships how much they would charge to swap the engine to see if you're getting a fair price from your dealer. And yep, like was mentioned, the cost could further escalate after the dealer gets into the engine swap if other complications arise.

Be sure to ask about the warranty? If a "new" engine does not come with a longer warranty than the service work for new piston & rings, don't know if it'll necessarily be better to go with the new engine? For another forum member, the new engine was shot after 30k miles.
See: http://www.terrainforum.net/index.php?topic=7836.msg97872;topicseen#new
 
#11 ·
chevy_2010_equinox said:
Many of you who see my posts knew this was coming..."Get it fixed and trade it!" ...or live with it. As an owner, you should not have to put any money towards an engine that's a known problem.

What kind of warranty is GM giving with the "band aid" fix? 6 months or the remainder of the factory warranty?
Why would you say it's a "band aid" fix? I would believe that the engineers from GM have come up with a correct fix to the problem Isn't the fix the same as what is in the newer engines? ie: heftier rings etc.? Sometimes its just best to go with what the dealer says instead of some shade tree mechanic.
 
#12 ·
chevy_2010_equinox said:
Well let's see how the band aid fix pans out... (poser)
It sounds like you have no reason to call it a "band aid fix".

Engineers are not perfect, nor can the see into every possible future. When an unanticipated engineering problem comes along, the engineer a solution. Just because some people got new engines (and still had other issues in some cases) while the problem was being worked on, doesn't mean that the eventual solution isn't valid.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
So if you've done your research and know a little bit about the history of why this engine has it's problems, you'd know the the leaking high pressure fuel pump had a lot to do with the accelerated wear of the piston rings. So gas in oil (high amounts) doesn't affect any other parts/bearings in the engine? Culminated with low oil because of the consumption, there's a high probability that bearings may have been scorn, excessive wear on camshaft lobes, valves etc.

Think about how many customers experienced the low oil condition and had no idea until it was too late? The oil sensor on my 2010 never illuminated until I was just shy of 1 quart of oil left in the crank case. Think about the carbon issue with the carbon build up on the valves and combustion chamber because of the blow by...mine had it, it took a lot to get GM to approve inspection. It did reveal excessive carbon build up that caused detonation. If you know anything, detonation is serious problem.

Why do you think GM initially replaced the short block?

I highly doubt if any tech is going to inspect the crank, cam, valves, and rod bearings while performing the fix, it takes too much time. If I'm not mistaken, all that's called for is to inspect the cylinder walls.

On that note, carry on... unless you have some good information.
 
#14 ·
chevy_2010_equinox said:
So if you've done your research and know a little bit about the history of why this engine has it's problems, you'd know the the leaking high pressure fuel pump had a lot to do with the accelerated wear of the piston rings. So gas in oil (high amounts) doesn't affect any other parts/bearings in the engine? Culminated with low oil because of the consumption, theres a high probability that bearings may have been scorn, excessive wear on camshaft lobes, valves etc. Think about how many customers experienced the low oil condition and had no idea until it was too late? The oil sensor on my 2010 never illuminated until I was just shy of 1 quart of oil left in the crank case. Think about the carbon issue with the carbon build up on the valves and combustion chamber because of the blow by...mine had it, it took a lot to get GM to approve inspection. It did reveal excessive carbon build up that caused detonation. If you know anything, detonation is serious problem.

Why do you think GM initially replaced the short block?

I highly doubt if any tech is going to inspect the crank, cam,valves, and rod bearings while performing the fix, it takes too much time. If im not mistaken, all thats called for is to inspect the cylinder walls.

On that note, carry on...unless you have some good information.
The tech wouldn't have the time or be compinsated to tear it down to inspect it, but that's what the enginers get paid to do. You think they just scrapped all those engines they sent back to GM or did they tear them down and see what was going on inside of them so they could come up with a fix?
 
#15 ·
I would have to agree with chevy_2010_equinox - get it fixed and get rid of it. I now have a car that I am still making payments on, that needs another engine and GM is not willing to do anything for me other than want $6,000 for an engine.
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
The vehicle has four years of wear, is past warranty and is into the parts eating age. Time to save money by trading.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/-4-cyl-Engines-C610.aspx


2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2006 - 2008 Reman 89060402 19259135 2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2006 - 2008 Reman 89060402 19259135
19259135 Replaces 89060402 2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2006 - 2008 Reman
The price of this engine includes a fully refundable $200.00 core charge that will be refunded upon return of your used engine. (Ask for details).
YOUR PRICE: $3,168.89 RETAIL: $3,345.00

2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2009-2010 New 12632971 2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2009-2010 New 12632971
12632971 2.4 Ltr New Goodwrench Engine
The price of this engine includes a fully refundable $200.00 core charge that will be refunded upon return of your used engine. (Ask for details).
YOUR PRICE: $3,168.89 RETAIL: $3,345.00

2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2009-2010 New 19208889 2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2009-2010 New 19208889
19208889 2.4 Ltr New Goodwrench Engine
The price of this engine includes a fully refundable $200.00 core charge that will be refunded upon return of your used engine. (Ask for details).
YOUR PRICE: $3,114.50 RETAIL: $3,345.00

2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2010-2011 New 12655766 2.4 Ltr - ECOTEC - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE 2010-2011 New 12655766
12655766 2.4 Ltr New Goodwrench Engine
The price of this engine includes a fully refundable $1,200.00 core charge that will be refunded upon return of your used engine. (Ask for details).
YOUR PRICE: $3,355.00 RETAIL: $3,345.00

2.4 Ltr - 146 C.I.D. - New - GM ENGINE 12657110 2.4 Ltr - 146 C.I.D. - New - GM ENGINE 12657110
12657110 2.4 Ltr - 146 C.I.D. - GM ENGINE
New
Price includes a $1,200.00 core charge
2010 - 2011 Equinox
YOUR PRICE: $3,355.00 RETAIL: $0.00
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
chevy_2010_equinox said:
So if you've done your research and know a little bit about the history of why this engine has it's problems, you'd know the the leaking high pressure fuel pump had a lot to do with the accelerated wear of the piston rings. So gas in oil (high amounts) doesn't affect any other parts/bearings in the engine? Culminated with low oil because of the consumption, theres a high probability that bearings may have been scorn, excessive wear on camshaft lobes, valves etc. Think about how many customers experienced the low oil condition and had no idea until it was too late? The oil sensor on my 2010 never illuminated until I was just shy of 1 quart of oil left in the crank case. Think about the carbon issue with the carbon build up on the valves and combustion chamber because of the blow by...mine had it, it took a lot to get GM to approve inspection. It did reveal excessive carbon build up that caused detonation. If you know anything, detonation is serious problem.

Why do you think GM initially replaced the short block?

I highly doubt if any tech is going to inspect the crank, cam,valves, and rod bearings while performing the fix, it takes too much time. If im not mistaken, all thats called for is to inspect the cylinder walls.

On that note, carry on...unless you have some good information.
What you have presented is a chain of anecdotes based on reports from customers on the internet. From the same source, I have it on good authority that aliens disguised as mice secretly rule the world. I am talking about engineers diagnosing the problem and coming up with a repair procedure that has been tested and found to work.

I am sure the other issues, like the fuel pump, are real, and if they contribute to the problem that it is undoubtedly part of the procedure to check/replace and problem parts. So unless you have some good, scientific, fact based information resulting from study and testing, I still don't see where you can call their fix a band aid.
 
#21 ·
chevy_2010_equinox said:
So when they replaced your engine why didn't they just perform the fix? BECAUSE ENGINEERS ORIGINALLY RECOGNIZED THAT THERE WAS MORE GOING ON THAN JUST THE RINGS AND PISTONS, my former 2010 was one of those engines that was replaced after an "engineer" inspected it! It was also relayed to me that "GM is coming up with a COST effective fix in the near future, so be happy that they replaced the short block".

This conversation need not go any further...to the original poster, fix it and trade it.

Remain clueless in Western PA...there's always a few in every forum, SMH.
One would think that a so called mechanic of 20 plus years would understand that the engineers needed the engines back to see what really was going on in them to fix them. Guess your way of auto repair is just replace everything till you get it right, Sounds like a shade tree mechanic
 
#22 ·
chevy_2010_equinox said:
To the original poster, do your research at the source...at your local dealer or mechanic shop thereof. Find a decent (well experienced - shade tree-LOL) mechanic who will be up front and honest with you.

As for the clueless poster which I will ignore but read his (or her) posts for entertainment purposes only LOL. I mentioned the word clueless because a simple internet search of your screen name revealed you...clueless and creepy.

As for your label of shade tree mechanic, I'll take that as a compliment...I am old school. I forgot more about auto mechanics than you will ever know. I'll even change my profile for you...to be exact.

I think it's funny that you've transformed a thread of engine replacement costs to a debate about a label I used "band aid fix". Don't you have anything better to pick apart? Should I contaminate this thread by criticizing you about your horrific spelling? And call you uneducated...no, I would not do that.

So hit that ignore button please...or leave your message in my PM box. I might entertain a response...
your point? you have nothing better to do than try to find someone's id on the internet?? Sounds pretty creepy to me. You a stalker?
 
#23 ·
Members Please remember to not get to far off topic on this thread and please refrain from anytype of name calling/rants on each other or this thread will be locked.

Have to remember the original poster is just trying to get some helpful info regarding estimated labor costs.

Thanks :thumb:
 
#25 ·
Well reading all this gives me a sense of foreboding. The dealer has already fixed the knocking in my engine--about 37000 miles. The engine eats at about the "normal" 1 quart per 2000 miles. My throttle valve has already had carbon build up cleaned off of it. So I think I better trade it in or run it I to the ground for the next two years until it belly up and dies? Thoughts? My note will be paid off in two years. GM has got a lot of nerve!! They will never see my money or face again! :eek:hno:
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
2012 Equinox LS AWD 4 cyl. 133K miles-
I know this subject has been beat to death but just want to put in my two cents( which will be all I have left after the equinox is done with me).

But first I would like to say the 2012 Equinox is a fine vehicle and a pleasure to drive except for the engine. Bought used and then started noticing oil disappearing( yeah most of you know the story). Took to dealer, oil consumption test done, dealer says normal use. No help from the dealer at all. Consumption got worse, went from 2 quarts to 4 quarts between oil changes.

In the meantime had to replace catalytic converter and a cracked exhaust manifold and now have a check engine light indicating O2 sensor problem, gas mileage dropping too. After researching, these problems seem to be caused by the oil use issue. Engine probably needs new rings and pistons($2500 at the dealer) but other internal damage may be present so cost may be even more. I found on the internet that GM had extended warranty for this issue but only up to 7 yrs or 120K miles. So, I am out of luck and dealer did not mention this as this started while still under 120K miles. Consulted a honest mechanic friend and he says it would be cheaper to replace the engine. He quoted $1800 for engine and labor, turn key job, with a one year warranty on everything. I trust him. Only choice is to replace engine or get rid of the car.

So, trying not to be long winded and boring this vehicle will cost me a lot. I wish GM would do something. I am filing a complaint with them and see if I get any kind of response. Very disappointed as it is a nice car but will be my last GM.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top